Friday, July 9, 2010

The Little black dress Headlines. part One 1926 - 1968

1926 The little Black dress comes onto the scene. Hairstyles are short, legs bared. Chanel creates the "Ford" model, soon to become the uniform of modern women, and invents"Le Chic Pauvre". 1930 The little Black Dress is here to stay. The world of Parisian couture is in the hands of a generation of magicians: Chanel, Vionnet, Lanvin and Schiaparelli harness their considerable talents to serve the little black dress. 1937 The little black dress has two loves. Cristobal Balenciaga comes to Paris and Jacques Fath founds his own establishment. 1940 The little black dress joins the Resistance. Dignified, plain and discreet, the little black dress endures as a symbol of patriotic chic, despite the scarcity of fabrics. Thanks to Parisian ingeniousness, the dress keeps mocking the occupying forces. 1943 The little black dress becomes a fashion essential. Pierre Balmain, sharing responsability with Christian Dior for Lucien Lelong's collections, presents an afternoon dress called Petit Profit, in black crepe de chine over Praline (called Jeannine at the time). The dress was a huge succes, with 360 items sold. 1945 The little black dress at the Theatre de la Mode. To help revitalize French Haute Couture after the war, the designers take their creations on a world tour, showing them on little wire dummies designed by Eliane Bonabel, working under Christian Berard (known as Bebe). The exhibition was inaugurated in Paris on March 27, 1945. 1947 The little black dress finds a New Look. Christian Dior presents his first collection in February 1947 at Avenue Montaigne. The revolutionary lenght and fullness of his models show the world that Paris is back in the forefront of fashion. 1953 The little black dress meets Sabrina. One year after his establishment opens at rue Alfred de Vigny, Hubert de Givenchy finds his muse: Audrey Hepburn. 1957 The little black dress goes into mourning. Three years after Jacques Fath, Christian Dior dies of a heart attack on October 23, after a game of canasta in Italy. 1960 The little black dress goes into cinema. With Antonioni, Resnais, and many more, the little black dress hits the silver screen. Cleverly dressing their heroines in black, the manipulators of the New Wave lay down their Queen of Spades to mark their distance from Technicolor comedies of the 1950's, and succeed in getting away-without censorship-with a veneration for the modern femme fatale, by intellectualizing her indecent sensuality. 1962 The little black dress goes on parade at Rue Spontini. After moving to the Rue de la Boetie in September 1961. Yves saint Laurent presents his first collection on January 29, with the little black dress taking pride of place. 1965 The little black dress goes mini. Courreges waves his magic wand and fashion becomes radically younger. 1968 The little black dress sheds bitter tears. In despair at Balenciaga's retreat from fashion, Mona von Bismarck shuts herself away for three days at her Avenue de New York residence.

Source: The Little Black Dress, Vintage Treasure. Didier Ludot, Assouline publishing 2001.

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