NO COMMENT: Kenton Nelson Us

Covers and Back Covers, Jardin des Modes

 Jardin des Modes, March 1954 

the cover is showing a Madeleine de Rauch suit made from  light Talweed from Rodier. The by panama  inspired hat is from Parisian milliner Paulette.

photograph by Bukzin.

the 1950's Haute Couture. Jacques Fath

Jacques Fath born in Maison-Lafitte, France on  6 September 1912 is still considered as one of the most important fashion designers from the postwar New Style  period in the 1950's.

In 1936-1937 he founded his first fashion house in Paris, Rue La Boutie. It is only after the Second World War in 1946 that the brand Jacques F. Fath is launched and the beginning of a very succesful career as a Haute Couture designer.  With Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga, Jean Desses, Jacques Heim, Pierre Balmain  and Jacques Fath a new style was created based on high manufactured dresses and on a neverseen perfection.

Jacques Fath was the enfant terrible of the 1950's pushing back all limits of creativity and with a extremely fine tuned sense of business. Jacques Fath was the most succesfull  and was employing 500 workers in his fashion house.Unfortunately he left at the age of 42 taken by bloodcancer, leaving behind a unique style and an inspiration for the next coming generations of fashion designers.

Jacques Fath was unique.

The illustration above is from  the French Jardin des Modes,  March 1954 showing some  of the last Jacques Fath creation. Jacques Fath died on 13 November 1954. 

Mode du Jour 27 April 1950 Cover  showing Le Monier hat - photograph Guy Arsac

Covers and Back Covers Stories One

Mode du Jour from 27 April 1950 backcover showing a dress designed by Jean Patou (left bottem) and a Jacques Heim  ( right bottem).

Walls in the city (6)

Walls in the city (5)

Piracy is a crime, to ignore is criminal

Piracy is tasteless. Piracy is increasing unemployment. Piracy is artistic violation. Piracy is helping ecological catastrophies. Piracy is destruction of creativity. Piracy is killing intellectual freedom and space. Piracy is disgusting, Piracy is corruption, Piracy is killing people. Piracy encourage economic catastrophies, Piracy is the end of cultural traditions. Piracy is increasing social conflicts. Piracy is the end of creation. Piracy is killing industries, Pirates and piracy retailers are the same type of criminals. Piracy is illegal. Piracy is immoral.
Think twice when you buy art, fashion, accessories, books, music, design, etc... buy only originals. Copies are not worth to buy, always far too expensive even when cheap and not worth to look at. Copies are always made of bad quality materials. If you don't want to suicide creation, refuse piracy.

The Little black dress Headlines. part One 1926 - 1968

1926 The little Black dress comes onto the scene. Hairstyles are short, legs bared. Chanel creates the "Ford" model, soon to become the uniform of modern women, and invents"Le Chic Pauvre". 1930 The little Black Dress is here to stay. The world of Parisian couture is in the hands of a generation of magicians: Chanel, Vionnet, Lanvin and Schiaparelli harness their considerable talents to serve the little black dress. 1937 The little black dress has two loves. Cristobal Balenciaga comes to Paris and Jacques Fath founds his own establishment. 1940 The little black dress joins the Resistance. Dignified, plain and discreet, the little black dress endures as a symbol of patriotic chic, despite the scarcity of fabrics. Thanks to Parisian ingeniousness, the dress keeps mocking the occupying forces. 1943 The little black dress becomes a fashion essential. Pierre Balmain, sharing responsability with Christian Dior for Lucien Lelong's collections, presents an afternoon dress called Petit Profit, in black crepe de chine over Praline (called Jeannine at the time). The dress was a huge succes, with 360 items sold. 1945 The little black dress at the Theatre de la Mode. To help revitalize French Haute Couture after the war, the designers take their creations on a world tour, showing them on little wire dummies designed by Eliane Bonabel, working under Christian Berard (known as Bebe). The exhibition was inaugurated in Paris on March 27, 1945. 1947 The little black dress finds a New Look. Christian Dior presents his first collection in February 1947 at Avenue Montaigne. The revolutionary lenght and fullness of his models show the world that Paris is back in the forefront of fashion. 1953 The little black dress meets Sabrina. One year after his establishment opens at rue Alfred de Vigny, Hubert de Givenchy finds his muse: Audrey Hepburn. 1957 The little black dress goes into mourning. Three years after Jacques Fath, Christian Dior dies of a heart attack on October 23, after a game of canasta in Italy. 1960 The little black dress goes into cinema. With Antonioni, Resnais, and many more, the little black dress hits the silver screen. Cleverly dressing their heroines in black, the manipulators of the New Wave lay down their Queen of Spades to mark their distance from Technicolor comedies of the 1950's, and succeed in getting away-without censorship-with a veneration for the modern femme fatale, by intellectualizing her indecent sensuality. 1962 The little black dress goes on parade at Rue Spontini. After moving to the Rue de la Boetie in September 1961. Yves saint Laurent presents his first collection on January 29, with the little black dress taking pride of place. 1965 The little black dress goes mini. Courreges waves his magic wand and fashion becomes radically younger. 1968 The little black dress sheds bitter tears. In despair at Balenciaga's retreat from fashion, Mona von Bismarck shuts herself away for three days at her Avenue de New York residence.

Source: The Little Black Dress, Vintage Treasure. Didier Ludot, Assouline publishing 2001.

Walls in the city (4)

The objective of graffiti is to be the most up (all city) and to have style while you're at it; while the objective of street art is to make a nice picture...but is not necessarly on public space, sometimes with the project of financial gain. It's the ethics that separate them.

MIGHTY MO

in London Street Art Anthology

Walls in the city (3)

Street Art it's all about the freedom to express yourself.

Alex Macnaughton

London Street Art Anthology

London Street Art Anthology - Prestel 2009-

Walls in the city (2)

A street artist is someone who creates art and then decides they want to put that art on a wall for everyone to see.

PANIK ATG

In london Street Art Anthology

photography Marc T

Walls in the city (1)

Walls in the city is a nomad portfolio of writings and pictures on walls in Tel Aviv. The graphiti and whatever expression applied on public or private walls in urban environment is an ephemeral visual collective memory of moments and fragments of social, political, cultural and sub-cultural life.

photography Marc T

Black head sculpture

Black head sculpture from Mikaela Assouline

Two questions about style and fashion (2)

Marc T is the publisher of New Nomad Elements of Style Magazine.

Born in Antwerp, Belgium

Horoscope: taurus

Place of living: Tel Aviv

Studies: Art history and Anthropology

Occupation: being extremely busy with creating what I like.

most favorate occupation: cooking for friends.

What makes a person stylish?

Having a strong personality and refusing facility. Style is matter of little personal details making big differences. Style is a timeless personal expression.

What is the difference between Style and fashion.?

Fashion is design. Fashion is the result of what was created yesterday with the vision of tomorrow. The fashion process is fast and is therefore fugitive and volatile. Style is a statement, a point of view and is therefore more consistent in time. Style reflects an inner personality rather then a ephemeral concept. High Fashion, at the opposite, is the immortalization of style this is why we do recognize the great designers.

Black Pasta

Black pasta or in culinary language " Calamari Ink Pasta" is one of those dishes that never disappears from memory after been tasted. This dish has to be relished and not just eaten. Frequently I was visiting the French Riviera and had a stop at the Louis XV, top chef Alain Ducasse restaurant in Monaco, or at Bruno Oger at the Villa des Ly the restaurant of the Majestic Hotel in Cannes. In both places I was seduced by the Black Pasta dishes, and always it was a supreme moment of culinary delight. Black pasta has somehow the same subtle touch and mystery as the colour black can evocate in arts and fashion. Black pasta is an emotion!

Basicaly making black pasta is not difficult, and it stands naturally only by the use of high quality ingredients. We need pasta , calamari, prawns, octupus and sea shells, gently served with a dab of oil from very ripe olives and a nice white wine... That's it! The Italian simplicity par exellence. But in the hands of great chefs like Alain Ducasse, Bruno Oger or Nadia Santini, it becomes pure miracle.

Being always in my memory as a latent picture, I was still looking for "The Black Pasta" and unfortunately I didn't find. Most of time it was just uneatable, bad and in the best case a small ok, often mediocre stomach filling and far away from a real culinary experience. I was ready to keep the black pasta in memory and to consider it, as a "souvenir d'epoque". Until one day, I had dinner in a restaurant in Tel Aviv. The menu presented Black pasta and immediately, all souvenirs came back. I ordered Black Taggliatelle served with calamari, mussels and ... Yes it was The Art of black pasta, perfectly cooked, full harmony in flavours and this incredible sense of ocean sensations composed by chef Eyal on a "belle assiette".

This culinary experience happened in Bistro Tchernichovski, Tchernichovski Street... I do not remember if it was in France, Italy or ..., no!, it was defenately in Tel Aviv.